PILOT 3 (pt.2): What is Circular Capital (+ Circulator /tecpacx)
For this part of our 3rd pilot, in collaboration with UAL and The Sustainable Angle / Future Fabrics Expo (FFE), we created a short film and debuted it at the FFE, NYC Edition. The film documented the creation of the Zero/Hero suit and how the Circulator® tool (deployed within our tecpacx®) would help guide such a product development for more financially and environmentally sustainable outcomes. We also used this opportunity to debuted the outcome of our smart tech pack® (tecpacx®) concept R&D, undertaken during part 1 of this third pilot. Prior to the Expo, we revealed the Circulator® (Circular Capital®) concept at the Design Museum in a private showcase to the Nordic chapter of the IACDE, alongside MMU RoLL, RCA, Papillon Bleu and Bureau555
NEW DESIGN JOURNEYS: ZERO/HERO SUIT
by Dark Water (previously named Hackney Harbour), tecpacx® (xyz.exchange®) + Circulator® & UAL
This Zero/Hero Suit project has been developed by emerging designer Dark Water in collaboration with xyz.exchange and UAL's tecpacx® R&D.
xyz.exchange engage with 'Fashion 2.0' by using innovative digital tools and research-driven frameworks that empower micro, small, and medium-sized enterprises (MSMEs) in fashion. Through collaborative R&D projects with UAL, they are developing tecpacx®, a Smart Tech Pack® platform, and Circulator®, a Circular Capital® scoring tool. These tools propose a methodology for guiding designers toward circular business models by incentivizing low-waste, high-durability, and reusable design practices. Their work aims to bridge the gap between sustainability and commercial viability, equipping MSMEs with the resources to adopt and succeed within circular economy principles in a rapidly evolving fashion landscape.
The Zero/Hero Suit project features a UK-grown hemp and recycled cashmere blend from Papillon Bleu and deadstock trims from YKK. Each component of the suit was sourced on a low MOQ and zero-inventory basis, showcasing how circular principles can support sustainable and flexible production models for MSMEs.
Guided by the Circulator (or 'Circular Capital') tool, Dark Water's design team meticulously crafted the suit to achieve a high sustainability score. This involved low waste pattern cutting, as well as incorporating trims and fasteners that facilitate future disassembly, and recycling. The durability of the materials and the thoughtful construction lend themselves naturally to extended product life and circular business models, allowing for resale, upcycling, or recycling.
Following on from our presentation at The Design Museum, we produced then exhibited a video at the 2025 NYC Edition of the Future Fabrics Expo (this video is available to stream at the top of this page).
In 2025 we entered into a new dedicated phase within Gavin Clarkes Shared TTO programme. Between UAL and cofounding university partner Lancaster University, alongside the University of Warwick, University of the West of England, University of Birmingham and Oxford Brookes University. Supported by a pool of sector specialists led by Mark Mann Ltd and Kindling Ventures Ltd, the STAGE pilot will focus on supporting smaller universities and institutions in commercialising spinouts, especially those emerging from SHAPE disciplines (Social Sciences, Humanities, and the Arts for People and the Economy) and social ventures from all research areas.
We used this phase to research both the Circular Capital and Circulator concepts in greater detail. below you can see two WIP research documents (presented as video ‘snap shots’). The first used to document key findings and the second proposes the next research phase, currently being put forward to LCF, to be run through Q1/2 in 2026, in tandem with the upcoming tecpacx® pilot, also taking place alongside elect LCF students and staff - as well as outside of eduction with key independent MSE brands, factories and stores.
Additionally, xyz founding member and UAL colleague, Eleanor Rockett, has been continuing her more scholarly inquiry (as part of her research pathway) alongside us. More recently Eleanor contributed to her first law review article, which explores the future of fashion supply chain regulation and AI technology.
